So You Want Unicorn/Rainbow/Fantasy Hair?
Written by: Melissa Megan
I get a lot of questions in the salon (and out of it) about how to achieve what I call "vivid colors". That means any and all combinations of magically unnatural colors including rainbow, unicorn, fantasy, oil slick, opal, etc. I have the same conversations over and over again, often resulting in a client changing their mind about doing the color they want because they didn't realize it would be so much work, time or money. Let's clear this up now: it takes a lot of work, time and money to do these colors. There are some tricks to reduce the upkeep after you achieve the color of your dreams, but getting there requires your full commitment to those three things. It also requires some patience because the fact is that as magical as these colors look, what I do is not magic; it's a careful combination of science, hard work and creative vision.
Here are some helpful points to understand if you're considering hopping on the rainbow hair train to candy unicorn mountain. (Thanks to @shurie of Pulp Riot for the inspiration for this)
1. It's going to take some work, time and multiple processes to get that fancy color.
If you have naturally dark, virgin hair, it will take time and work to get there. If you have ever colored your hair, it will take a little extra time and work to get there. If you have blonde hair and want to be pastel, it will still take time and work to get there. It's very likely that you'll need multiple processes, including more than one application of color, to get there. Be ready to compromise with variations on the dream color you want; we're taking this journey together.
2. Expect to spend a long, long time in the salon.
Most vivid colors require lightening the hair once or twice, applying new color once or twice, with blow drying time in between each process, plus a cut and final style at the end. If you've had a previous color on your hair, add a color remover to that list. If your hair has been "compromised", add extra time for bonding/protection treatments. I book vivid colors for a minimum of 3 hours, but some can take up to 8 hours to complete.
3. It's not cheap.
In case you forgot already, this process takes time and multiple products. All of that costs the salon money, which in turn costs you money. The longer it takes, the more products required, the more expensive it gets. Be honest about your budget at the start and we can work out ways to achieve that dream color in steps, over time, to help make it work for you. If you're committed to achieving maximum results in one sitting, you should be prepared to pay for up to 8 hours of time and various product applications. Because product (color remover, lightener, color, bonding treatments) costs money, you should also understand that the density and length of your hair will affect your bottom line, as it will require more time and product for your hair.
4. You have to get blonde before you can get bright.
"But do I really have to bleach my hair?" I get this a lot. Yes, you do. Well, I do. You've got to be blonde first in order to be any variation of vivid colors. This means some damage. This doesn't mean your hair has to fall apart, break or burn off (yes, I hear that one too). What it does mean, however, is how you take care of your hair after you leave my chair has A LOT to do with how well your hair holds up, how long your color lasts, and whether the magical hair fairies will kiss your pretty teal head. That last part was a joke, there are no fairies, sorry. Use the good products I suggest and follow my directions on how to take care of your hair to keep it strong. All that time and money we talked about above was an investment for you, so commit to it all the way and protect your investment by using quality care products.
5. Vivids are high maintenance. Vivids fade FAST.
These types of colors are called "direct dye" pigments, which means they're only meant to coat the hair shaft, they don't go inside the cuticle or permanently change your natural pigment. They're more like a heavy duty stain on the hair. And no, you can't create these colors with permanent pigments. The average rich vivid color will last 4-8 weeks, with proper after care, and pastel colors will last 1-2 weeks. I normally recommend that if you want your color to stay the same consistently, have it touched up every 3 weeks. These colors are a commitment.
6. Consistency is your friend.
Be consistent in your appointments for touch ups or to continue the journey to your perfect color, be consistent in your after care and be consistent in your color choice. If you're on a journey to a perfect color, each step that I do is intended to set you up for the next step in the process, so waiting too long to come back or messing with the color in between seeing me will only set us back and make more processes necessary. If you have your dream color now, stick to the products I recommend, use them the way I tell you to and don't try to cheat. It only takes a couple days of using a harsh product (shampoo, etc) to strip your color and pack your hair with wax, making it that much harder for me to get your color right the next time. And last, the more often you change your color goal, the more processing and color removing must be done, the more damage to the hair, the less likely your color will last. As you layer the same color on, each layer helps it look richer, brighter and last longer, so sticking with one color for at least a few months is a smart choice.
Now, clear your calendar, collect your hard earned cash, build your hair inspo Pinterest board and get started on your hair journey to the fantasy unicorn dream hair you've always wanted!